Snapshots of Iceland: Then and Now

Iceland, the land of fire and ice, celebrated its 80th anniversary of independence in 2024. From a remote island on the periphery of the world map, it has transformed into a modern nation brimming with cultural vibrancy and captivating landscapes. This journey through time, guided by three captivating photo collections hosted on JSTOR, reveals the fascinating evolution of this remarkable country. We’ll witness what has remained constant amidst the relentless tide of change, and what has irrevocably transformed, painting a rich tapestry of Iceland’s past, present, and future.

Let’s rewind the clock back to the dawn of the 20th century, a time when Iceland remained largely untouched by the rapid advancements sweeping across the globe. Frederick W.W. Howell, a British explorer armed with a camera and an insatiable curiosity, embarked on an expedition to document the island’s raw, untamed beauty. His collection, the “Icelandic and Faroese Photographs of Frederick W. W. Howell,” offers us a glimpse into a bygone era. Through his lens, we witness the awe-inspiring power of nature – the dramatic Gullfoss waterfall cascading down rocky cliffs, the otherworldly geothermal landscapes of Haukadalur, and the quaint charm of Reykjavík, a fledgling town nestled against the backdrop of snow-capped mountains.

Howell’s photographs capture a timeless quality, a sense of serenity that seems to transcend the passage of time. Many of the vistas he immortalized remain iconic landmarks, drawing countless visitors seeking to experience the same untamed beauty that captivated Howell over a century ago. The bubbling mud pools and erupting geysers of Haukadalur still captivate onlookers, while the majestic Gullfoss continues to inspire awe. Yet, a closer examination reveals the subtle fingerprints of time. The Great Geysir, which once dominated the geothermal landscape, now lies dormant, its energy eclipsed by the more active Strokkur. Even the seemingly immutable Gullfoss shows signs of erosion, a testament to the relentless forces shaping the Icelandic landscape.

Fast forward a few decades, and we encounter the work of Magnús Ólafsson, a Reykjavík-based photographer who documented Iceland’s transition into the modern era. Ólafsson’s “Stereoscope Pictures from Iceland” collection provides a captivating window into the social and cultural shifts that were transforming the island nation. His images capture not only the breathtaking landscapes but also the lives of the people who inhabited them. We witness the unveiling of the Jón Sigurðsson statue in Reykjavík, a pivotal moment in Iceland’s fight for independence, and the construction of the Norðurá Bridge, a symbol of progress and connectivity. Ólafsson even documented the (unfortunately false) gold rush in Vatnsmýri, capturing the excitement and anticipation that gripped the nation.

Through Ólafsson’s lens, we see a country in transition, embracing modernity while holding onto its rich cultural heritage. His photos of Reykjavík showcase a city on the cusp of transformation, its traditional architecture slowly giving way to the emerging trends of the 20th century. While his landscape photography still captures the raw beauty of Iceland, his focus on human activity and social events paints a more dynamic picture of a nation coming of age.

The final leg of our journey takes us into the realm of architectural transformation, guided by the “John Clair Miller Image Collection of Twentieth-Century Architecture in Iceland.” This collection showcases the impact of Modernism on Icelandic design, revealing a nation embracing a new aesthetic while remaining deeply connected to its natural surroundings. We see the sleek lines of the Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum, the functional elegance of Reykjavík’s first indoor swimming pool, and the striking presence of Reykjavík City Hall, a concrete marvel that seems to float on the tranquil waters of Tjörnin.

Perhaps the most striking example of this architectural evolution is the Nordic House, a masterpiece designed by renowned Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. Nestled in the heart of Vatnsmýri, the Nordic House embodies a harmonious blend of modern design and natural elements. Its sloping roofline mimics the surrounding mountains, while its dark blue tiles echo the hues of the Icelandic sky. Inside, warm wood finishes and geometric shapes create a welcoming atmosphere, a testament to Aalto’s mastery of form and function.

These three collections, when viewed together, offer a compelling narrative of Iceland’s transformation over the past century. They reveal a country that has embraced progress and modernity while retaining its unique cultural identity and deep connection to its natural heritage. From the rugged beauty captured by Howell to the social dynamism documented by Ólafsson, and the architectural innovation showcased by Miller, we witness the evolution of a nation finding its place in the modern world.

The photographs also offer a poignant reminder of the ephemeral nature of time and the constant cycle of change. Landscapes evolve, buildings rise and fall, and societies transform. Yet, the spirit of Iceland, its resilience and deep connection to its land, remains a constant thread woven through the fabric of its history.

As we celebrate Iceland’s 80 years of independence, these photographs offer more than just a glimpse into the past. They provide a valuable perspective on the present and a hopeful glimpse into the future. They remind us that change is inevitable, but it is through understanding our past that we can shape a brighter future, one that honors the traditions and embraces the opportunities that lie ahead.

So, the next time you find yourself gazing at a photograph of Iceland, take a moment to appreciate the stories hidden within the frame. Let these snapshots transport you to a different time, a different place, and allow you to connect with the rich tapestry of Icelandic history, woven through the lens of time. And remember, each photograph is a piece of the puzzle, a fragment of a larger narrative that continues to unfold with every passing day. As Iceland continues to evolve, its story will be told through the lenses of future photographers, capturing the ever-changing landscape and the enduring spirit of this remarkable island nation.