In December 2020, archaeologists in Pompeii unearthed a vibrant piece of ancient culinary history—a beautifully painted counter of a fast food restaurant known to the Romans as a thermopolium. This discovery adds to the 89 thermopolia found in Pompeii, shedding light on the dining habits of ancient Romans and their penchant for communal eating spots.
Dining Out or Eating In?
The term “thermopolium” comes from the Greek word θερμοπώλιον (thermopōlion), meaning “hot shop” or “place where hot things are sold.” Despite this common usage, ancient texts more frequently mention the term “popina.” In ancient Rome, the lower classes, often without personal kitchens, relied on thermopolia for their meals.
The grain dole provided by the state could be used to make porridge or bread, but for those needing a quick, hot meal, thermopolia were the go-to option. These establishments were not just for eating; they served as social hubs where people met friends, flirted with servers, and even gambled.
Thermopolia were associated with the lower classes and “seedy” characters, as the wealthy preferred dining at home or with invited guests. However, even the upper classes, including Emperor Nero, frequented these establishments for a change of pace. Pompeii, a bustling town strategically located on central trading routes, had a high demand for quick meals, evidenced by the numerous thermopolia.
The Thermopolia of Pompeii
Pompeii’s thermopolia typically featured open fronts facing the street, attracting passersby. Counters with embedded jars (dolia) held various foods and drinks, such as fruits, nuts, bread, cakes, hot food, and wine. Many had seating areas, and some even boasted gardens for dining al fresco.
Inside these establishments, frescoes depicted food, drink, customers, and servers, providing a vivid picture of ancient dining culture. For example, a thermopolium in Region V had a fresco of freshly slaughtered birds, suggesting a diverse menu beyond ready-to-go meals.
One of the most comprehensive thermopolia discovered in Pompeii is the Thermopolium of Asellina, excavated in 1911. Located on the Via dell’Abbondanza, the city’s busiest street, it had inscriptions of three serving women: Aegle, Maria, and Zmyrina. The shop featured a bright red counter topped with marble slabs and jars for goods. It also had a small oven and a back room with wine amphorae, showcasing the variety of offerings.
Some thermopolia, like the one owned by Lucius Vetutuius Placidus, included religious shrines for protection. The quality of materials and paintings in such establishments indicates that merchants and craftsmen could achieve a high local social status, a privilege once reserved for landowners.
Thermopolia often served as the front for houses, adding an extra layer of security. These establishments attracted diverse characters, as depicted in frescoes. For instance, the Caupona of Salvius in Region VI shows a server offering wine to two individuals arguing over a cup, with humorous inscriptions above them. Another fresco depicts a couple canoodling, while yet another shows gamblers playing dice, highlighting the lively atmosphere of these ancient fast-food joints.
More Affairs:
Food on Offer in the Thermopolia of Pompeii
Thanks to the preservation by Vesuvius’s eruption, archaeologists have uncovered remains of food in Pompeii’s thermopolia. Common finds include remnants of goat, pig, duck, fish, and snails, often cooked together in stews. Crushed beans, used to enhance the flavor and color of wine, have also been discovered.
Wine, predominantly red, was a staple in these establishments, served hot or cold. Hot wine was heated in bronze containers, similar to modern mulled wine, while cold wine was stored in jugs. Prices varied based on quality, with graffiti in Herculaneum listing prices from 2 to 4 asses per pitcher. Another graffiti in Pompeii advertised different wine prices, indicating a range of options from basic to premium wines like Falernian.
Conclusion
The rediscovery of thermopolia in Pompeii offers a fascinating glimpse into ancient Roman life. These establishments were more than just places to eat; they were vibrant social hubs where people from different classes interacted, ate, drank, and enjoyed life. The thermopolia of Pompeii remind us that the need for quick, convenient meals and social interaction transcends time, echoing our modern-day fast-food culture.
